How to Buy a Car Battery
by Liv | Published on August 14th, 2009, 10:20 am | Sports
So Shannon drops me off for an appointment on Battleground and takes off with the car. This is when she discovers it almost doesn't start. Luckily she makes it back, but it's clear we need a battery for the car. Actually I've known for sometime, but have put it off due to time and money. It's seemed to have a dead-cell in it for sometime, but we really killed the thing when we left the lights on the day we went to What-A-Burger.
Now it's been awhile since I've purchased a battery, but the prices have gone up quite a bit. 10 Years ago, you could easily get a generic battery for $29.99. My first few calls wanted $79.00 for battery. "Bolshevik" as Sum would say.
My first gripe when buying a car battery was that the auto-part workers are so used to looking everything up they can't handle normal questions like:
I want you cheapest top-pole, non-application specific battery, with a negative on the left-hand-side.
They're like "Uh, we can't do that."
"What?"
Finally I figured I'd drive to Wal-Mart. Cheapest? $50.00 and it's 660 CCA.
The guy slithers his way over and goes "That's not enough power for your car."
I'm like Jesus Christ dude... It's a 3.0 Liter... (besides the golden rule is 2X C.I. = CCA [two times the cubic inches equals the necessary cranking amps]) You do the math...
"What you putting it in?"
"A table saw, think it will work?"
"Huh?"
So for $50.00 I left Wal-Mart with a new battery... Came home, stuck it in the Taurus and all is well.
Well sort of.
The battery is dimensionally smaller, but a small piece of wood to shim it in, holds it in tighter than a fat man in a Smart Car.... which really makes you wonder... When did we go from universal battery trays and hold downs, to application specific batteries that cost 2 or 3 times as much? Why not a single universal size?