Greensboring.com | Greensboro, NC

So two weeks ago, our fairly new budget Dryer from Roper (made by Whirlpool) just stopped working right after doing a load of laundry. The dryer being less than 3 years old began to make me mad and drink a lot as I embarked on a two day mission with a multi-tester, a screw driver and a virginesque view of 220 wiring. I broke some nails, cut my hands, but I never could find anything wrong with the dryer. It was getting voltage everywhere it should. That's when I decided to open up the timer and check the contacts. Sure enough they were burnt. I later figured out a quick test for people with a Roper or Whirlpool dryer who find themselves in a similar situation to test if it's the timer before you call out the repairman. After all, if this happening to me, it's happening to other people... and let's be frank.. this crap dryer isn't worth a repair visit. I have my suspicions that the timers burn out quicker on the dryers with the energy saving feature because they constantly turn-off-and-on by themselves to conserve power.

Here's my model number for reference:


and as you can see here's the energy saver feature, which on the back of the knob is the timer.


So here's the trick. It will only take 10 minutes to see if your dryer quit because of the timer as well...

1) Unplug dryer.
2) Access the upper rear panel and remove:







3) Locate the timer on the right hand-side directly behind the large knob.






4) Now see that white harness on the right hand-side of the timer with the tan and white wires? Double check you've done step #1 (Be a bit O.C.D.... it's worth it.) and remove the harness being aware of how it's positioned on the timer. Grab a jumper wire and connect the tan to the white. (on the harness) Plug the dryer in and carefully start the dryer. If it starts right up, you need a new timer.

In my case I disassembled the timer for a visiual confirmation which can clearly be seen:


Now I'll warn you, the timers aren't cheap. The cheapest I found was for $63.88 and about $17 in shipping on E-bay. (It came direct from Sears though it's sold through a company called Mel-Co) If you have the exact same model dryer I have (RED4400SQ0) then you'll need timer:

3979617 Timer 60 Hz Dryers for Whirlpool or Roper

You can google it here.

Installation is a breeze. Remove the knob then the two screws that hold the timer in place. Then replace each wire for wire on the timer. (which are color coded just in case). Do be careful re-installing the tan-white harness because it can go on more than one way and you will blow a breaker if it's offset on the wrong connector. (Don't ask how I know this.)

So what if it's not the timer? Well it could be several things but most likely it's the white thermostatic fuse located behind the tin cover on the lower half of the dryer. Since it's somewhat more cumbersome to get to and requires a multimeter to properly test, I would have to probably recommend you call someone at this point. (If your comfortable with testing it, unplug one lead on it and check it for continuity.) On the other hand if you find your vent clogged with lint, something you can check without much difficulty then that's probably the issue. (The thermostatic fuse overheating from the lack of air flow.)

A few things I've learned (or questioned) out of this experience are:

1) Dryers are stupid. They suck in my A/C which I've already cooled, heats it, then tosses it out the external vent. I can't believe in 2010 this is as good as it gets. (The smart Japanese have heat-pump and microwave dryers.) It would seem to make sense to me that during the summer, running a vent to the intake of the dryer would be a huge energy saving modification.

2) There are no Energy Star Dryers. When I started shopping around believing all was hopeless I would have ended up with nothing better than what I have now.

3) Why does does Whirlpool sell under the name Roper then print the name Whirlpool on the dryer? Why not just call it a Whirlpool?

4) A clothes line and pins costs about $7 and actually dries the clothes quicker than the dryer when it's above 90F.

I can't remember when I last used my dryer. I use option #4 in summer and a clothes rack in winter

it doesn't need to be above 90F either. Anything above 32F

I would imagine if the temp was 33 F, the process would take quite a while.

SouthernFriedInfidel wrote:I would imagine if the temp was 33 F, the process would take quite a while.

When we first moved back to NC from AZ about 5 years ago we were dirt poor... (seriously... dirt...) and had no dryer. Spent the first few months hanging clothes out. Jeans took about 3 weeks to dry because of the humidity around here when it's not summer... I doubt they'd ever dry in the winter here.

Before I figured it out, I was going to buy the $1400 LG washer dryer combo:

Open in New Window

After a good bit of research (and checking with the bank on getting a 30 year loan on the thing)... supposedly, several reviews suggested their power consumption was cut in half going to this unit because of it's high-rpm drying tumbler and it's energy saving washer feature.

But I must say... I'm glad I didn't have to fork over that change now.

SouthernFriedInfidel wrote:I would imagine if the temp was 33 F, the process would take quite a while.

Seriously, no. Not if the sun is shining and there's a breeze, but we do have very low humidity.

I imagine that if you used your dryer on fluff, i.e. without heat, it would dry almost as well, given the air conditioning, and save some cash

The other thing is to get a front loader washing machine with at least a 1200 rpm spin. That uses a fraction of the water, gets clothes cleaner and they come out a lot dryer to start with

I feel your pain. I've been sans washing machine for a month now.

Sanjuro wrote:I feel your pain. I've been sans washing machine for a month now.

Well I'm all good now. Dryer is fixed, I fixed the upper rack of the dishwasher with new rollers yesterday... and installed a switch on the water-heater for electricity savings....

It's like a whole new f'ing house here....

Next project: Build giant wifi tower that shadows house and tie into wireless bridge so I can cancel my internet bill....

...but that might be awhile.

This was a great write up.. saved me from buying a new dryer, Service call not worth the cost of the dryer.
Thanks

My flipping range bit the dust yesterday. It's not very old (8 years) but the electronic control board died - again. I replaced it once already about four years ago. The part is around $200 but it also needs new glass for the door and some other minor (but expensive) things so it's time for a new range.

If it was summer I'd just use the BBQ for a while and order one online but there's a small problem there



So hi-ho, hi-ho it's off to town we go
to the store we'll dash, with a pile of cash
hi-ho, hi-ho, hi-ho

It's lovely how these things hit.... I had to replace the kids laptop just before Xmas as they left it sitting under the recliner and the screen got cracked.... the keyboard was mis or hit, so I ordered a used one off ebay....

If I can steer clear of major costs the next few months I'll be way too happy.

Oooooh Buttons



Ooooooh shiny



Let's hope it lasts better than the last one

Was the last one a LG too????

Neeto it has an extra burner (or does everyone in Canada get 5?)

No the last one was a Kitchen Aid. Similar features though. Other than the microwave (which is a Samsung) all my kitchen appliances are LG. I've been impressed with the design of the fridge and dish washer so I thought I'd try the range too

The middle element is a 100w warming spot. It will keep a boiled saucepan hot. The front elements are enormous, my largest saucepan only just covers them, but they kick out 2,700 watts (compared with 1,200 for a 'normal' spiral one)

Ever wondered what happens if plastic melts on a glass cooktop?



Removing it removes a layer of glass

Bummer

Is this your new one????

We've got some stains of crap on ours we can't get out... tried the clearner crap which was useless....

Yeah it's the new one

A plastic egg carton got pushed over the burner after it had been switched off but was still warm. I didn't notice until much later when it was cold and had set into a hard mess.

I'll have to see if they'll fix it under warranty

Trade it in for one of these:

You know that gives me an idea

A stove top that has pixels of heating elements and sensors that recognise when a pan is placed on the surface somewhere. You key the heat to the pan and the system tracks it as you move it - or set up a gradient so that moving the pan to the back cools it to simmer, moving it to the front raises the heat.

A miniature Zamboni to clean up spills would be nice too

LOL... That's go to be Roomba's next robot....


I fee your pain though... Between Shan driving the car into a ditch a few weeks ago (she and the car are currently fine), that dork at Wal-Mart, the toilet, and someone almost rear-ending me yesterday... It just feels as the universe is out to get me.

THANK YOU SO MUCH! I have this same dryer, 2 1/2 ys old... I read your instrucions and took apart the top of dryer, and checked out the timer area... My dryer is actualy newer than yours. Diffrent mod #s. However your information was exactly correct. I set out online trying o find a parts store near by. I even comparred the sears dirrect. I didnt want to wait a week for the part. I got ahold of a man named Gus, told me to call look up Reliance parts .com..... Very helpful people... all over the USA. I got my part same day. THE TIMER...... everywhere I called they tried to tell me that it could not be my timer... it had to be the door switch, or the motor, or the startbutton... they said never the timer..... now, I am a 40 year old, divorced woman, I brought the New Timer home, clipped it in, and BAM!!!! The dryer fired right up! THANK YOU again..... I fixed my own dryer for $100. by myself...... very satisfying.....
Ilona

So glad to hear it!!!! Yeah!!!